Message	Date	From	Subject
8193	2013-02-01 15:23:46	Jerry Haigwood	Cutting Copper Clad Board
Hello All, I would like to know how most of you builders cut copper clad board. I usually buy my board from ABCFAB at the epay place in 4 x 6 inch pieces. I have been using a hack saw and sometimes a jig saw to do the cutting. Neither method is very accurate. I have heard of people scoring the laminate with a knife and then snapping the piece off. I haven't tried that method - I'd probably be missing a finger or two if I tried. ;-) I have looked around for a lost cost shear but there isn't any such thing. So, share your methods please! Jerry W5JH "building something without experimenting is just solder practice" [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
8194	2013-02-01 15:50:12	Chris Trask	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
> > I would like to know how most of you builders cut copper clad board. I > usually buy my board from ABCFAB at the epay place in 4 x 6 inch pieces. I > have been using a hack saw and sometimes a jig saw to do the cutting. > Neither method is very accurate. I have heard of people scoring the > laminate with a knife and then snapping the piece off. I haven't tried that > method - I'd probably be missing a finger or two if I tried. ;-) I have > looked around for a lost cost shear but there isn't any such thing. So, > share your methods please! > I generally use a hacksaw or jig saw becasue they are available, but I would love to get my hands on one of those small Craftsman benchtop bandsaws and fit it with a metal-cutting blade. I've used full-size bandsaws to do this, and one place I worked had une set of for metal and PCB cutting only. Don't bother with a shear. The glass fibers in the PCB will ruin the blade faster than anything else you can think of. Chris Trask N7ZWY / WDX3HLB http://www.home.earthlink.net/~christrask/
8195	2013-02-01 15:57:30	Jerry Haigwood	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
Hi Chris, Yep, I have been looking at the bench saws also. However, I have yet to find a metal cutting blade for one. I checked the usual places but maybe I need to dig deeper. Jerry W5JH "building something without experimenting is just solder practice"
8196	2013-02-01 16:00:15	William Carver	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
If you're not cutting production quantities of board material a shear works fine. After 25 years mine is cutting PCB, .010 tinned steel and sheet alumiumum without a problem. And it was used to begin with. W7AAZ On Fri, 2013-02-01 at 16:48 -0700, Chris Trask wrote: > I would like to know how most of you builders cut copper clad board. > I usually buy my board from ABCFAB at the epay place in 4 x 6 inch > pieces. > I have been using a hack saw and sometimes a jig saw to do the > cutting. Neither method is very accurate. I have heard of people > scoring the laminate with a knife and then snapping the piece off. I > haven't tried that method - I'd probably be missing a finger or two if > I tried. ;-) I have looked around for a lost cost shear but there > isn't any such thing. So, > share your methods please! > > > > I generally use a hacksaw or jig saw becasue they are available, but I > would love to get my hands on one of those small Craftsman benchtop > bandsaws and fit it with a metal-cutting blade. I've used full-size > bandsaws to do this, and one place I worked had une set of for metal > and PCB cutting only. > > Don't bother with a shear. The glass fibers in the PCB will ruin the > blade faster than anything else you can think of. > > Chris Trask > N7ZWY / WDX3HLB > http://www.home.earthlink.net/~christrask/ > > > > >
8197	2013-02-01 16:00:31	Phil Sittner	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
Chris, Jerry etal. The fiberglass will tear up your bandsaw blade faster than it ruins the hacksaw. The ideal solution is a shear fitted with a carbide or ceramic blade. I even tried using a small diamond blade (ceramic tile saw) but the dust was just terrible, so back to the dependable hacksaw along with a clean up file. As an aside, you can use a cheap (harbor freight) dial caliper to scribe circuit trace lines and then carve them out with an exacto knife. This method even works with the larger smd parts. Good luck and keep up the circuit hacking. Phil kd6rm ----- Original Message -----
8198	2013-02-01 16:03:34	NeilDouglas	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
Jerry, For large cuts I use a water cooled ceramic tile circular saw. For smaller cuts I use a panel hacksaw with a medium toothed blade. Unfortunately these are no longer made but occasionally come up for sale on the well known electronic auction site. NeilD G4SHJ _____
8199	2013-02-01 16:10:21	bobtbobbo	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
For years I have been using a small benchtop ceramic tile cutting saw. It looks like a miniature plastic version of a wood-cutting table saw. The 3" blade has no teeth. It is a steel disc with industrial diamond chips imbedded in it. Designed to cut ceramic tile, I expect it to last at least another 10 years, cutting the relatively "soft" pc board. There is a little water well under the cutting wheel to help keep it cool. It has an adjustable rail fence, just like a regular table saw. Set the distance between the rail fence and the blade, turn it on and push your pc board through in exactly the same way one would use a wood table saw. I think I paid about $20 for it. I have seen newer ones for about the same price. I get precisi
8200	2013-02-01 16:51:53	Chris Trask	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
> > For years I have been using a small benchtop ceramic tile cutting saw. It looks like a miniature > plastic version of a wood-cutting table saw. The 3" blade has no teeth. It is a steel disc with > industrial diamond chips imbedded in it. Designed to cut ceramic tile, I expect it to last at > least another 10 years, cutting the relatively "soft" pc board. There is a little water well > under the cutting wheel to help keep it cool. It has an adjustable rail fence, just like a > regular table saw. Set the distance between the rail fence and the blade, turn it on and push > your pc board through in exactly the same way one would use a wood table saw. I think I paid > about $20 for it. I have seen newer ones for about the same price. I get precision cuts every > time! > That sounds like an interesting option. I've used one for doing floor tiles and never thought of using one for cutting PCBs. Chris
8201	2013-02-01 19:23:05	Jerry Haigwood	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
Hi Niel, The water cooled tile saw sounds like a really great idea. One of reasons I want to make accurate cuts is in order to make boxes out of copper clad. My friend Ken Locosale does this all the time. He makes beautiful boxes but then again he is a Mechanical Engineer with many years experience. You can see some of his work here: http://qrpbuilder.com/downloads/pcb_chassis_a.pdf While you are there, take a look at Ken's loop antenna including homemade trombone capacitors. I also took a look at Harborfreight.com for tile saws. They have 4 models. One is a pro type model and three smaller models. The three smaller models are almost all the same price ($60-65). Two are 7 inch models and one is a 4.5 inch model. I think the 4.5 inch model would work well enough. I can always go by the local store and check them out before deciding. The URL is: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=tile+saw So, this looks promising! Thank you for info. Jerry W5JH "building something without experimenting is just solder practice"
8203	2013-02-01 22:10:03	Kerry	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
I use this setup; http://i46.tinypic.com/1402s5.jpg Two ca.2-foot lengths of about 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 1/4" angle; there is a 1/4" bolt at each end in the vertical flange; the bolt passes through the front flange and is tapped into the rear flange. Called filing or bending bars in the olden days; I also use them for bending sheet-metal. The tool on the left is a cheap tile-scoring tool; the other is a small engineer's square. First I mark the required size on the PCB then score with the tool against a firmly-held steel rule. A piece of ply/chipboard protects the benchtop from gouges when the scoring tool passes the edge of the PCB. Score s/s PCB on the copper side first then turn over and the line can be seen through the fibreglass; score along this line and snap over the bench edge or in the vise. Double-side PCB requires a layout line on each side. It doesn't take much of a score to provide a stress-riser for snapping. The PCB then goes into the centre of the filing bars (but see later) with just a little protruding; file level with the top surface with a fairly coarse file and you have one straight edge. Rotate PCB 90 degrees and use the square to get the first straight edge vertical, ie square to the top of the bars; the square blade must be thinner than the PCB material. Leave a little PCB protruding, tighten the vise and check again with the square. File the PCB as in step 1; now there are two straight edges at right angles. Rinse & repeat until you have four straight sides; a perfect rectangle if you have been careful. Check with the square. Accurate sizes can be made by doing the first two sides then working from them to scribe lines for the other two sides; carefully align the scribed lines with the top of the bars and check with the square before filing level. The bolts are useful if the required size is large and won't fit in the vertical throat of the vise; in that case it goes to one side of the vise and the vise and the bolt are tightened together to keep even pressure on the PCB. Took longer to describe than to do. :) The file removes almost no steel from the top face of the bars; mine has been used for PCB and other filing of thin material for about 20 years and there may be a few thou hollow, not enough to worry about. Kerry VK2TIL.
8204	2013-02-01 22:34:38	Ashhar Farhan	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
I cut the FR4 boards quite easily with nothing more than a hobby knife and a ruler. I draw the cut line with a sharp pencil. Keep the ruler over is and score twice, lightly. The first two scores are meant to mark a groove that is straight and capable of holding the blade in. Then three passes putting my body weight behind the knife, the tip sitting in the groove, resting against the passing the knife SLOWLY over the groove. You should feel the knife tip go past the copper cladding. Once you have a deep and nice line drawn out, place the board at the edge of a table, such that the table edge is under and along the ridge of the copper board. Place a book or a wooden board above the copper board as well, sandwiching the copper clad between the table and the wooden block. Now, firmly and slowly, work the coppe clad up and down, feel the fibers loosening up along the cut line. Keep on moving the copper clad increasing the angle of bend until it cracks on the cut line. Pry it loose. The trick is to get the cut line straight and deep and then hold the board firmly and work it up and down carefully. - f On 2/2/13, Jerry Haigwood <jerry@w5jh.net> wrote: > Hi Niel, > > The water cooled tile saw sounds like a really great idea. One of > reasons I want to make accurate cuts is in order to make boxes out of > copper > clad. My friend Ken Locosale does this all the time. He makes beautiful > boxes but then again he is a Mechanical Engineer with many years > experience. > You can see some of his work here: > > http://qrpbuilder.com/downloads/pcb_chassis_a.pdf > > While you are there, take a look at Ken's loop antenna including homemade > trombone capacitors. I also took a look at Harborfreight.com for tile > saws. > They have 4 models. One is a pro type model and three smaller models. The > three smaller models are almost all the same price ($60-65). Two are 7 inch > models and one is a 4.5 inch model. I think the 4.5 inch model would work > well enough. I can always go by the local store and check them out before > deciding. The URL is: > > http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=tile+saw > > So, this looks promising! Thank you for info. > > Jerry W5JH > > "building something without experimenting is just solder practice" > > > > > > > >
8205	2013-02-02 03:02:27	Leon Heller	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

8206	2013-02-02 03:59:24	Bill Meara	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
I use tin shears. ---
8207	2013-02-02 05:35:53	Bob	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
All - I'm biased but may I suggest "An Easier Way to Build PC Board Enclosures", QST, Sept. 2003? This article was reprinted in the ARRL book "More QRP Power" but the QST version is in color which adds some clarity to the photos. BTW - Radio Shack sells some double sided phenolic based board which is easier to work than glass based board material but I use both. I've never been able to find phenolic based stuff anywhere else - any suggestions on this? Cordially, Bob, K3NHI
8208	2013-02-02 06:47:40	Tom	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
I bought a Jim Byrnes table saw. < http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/tablesaw1.html > It is a lot of money and definitely not a tool for the occasional builder. I've had it for a few years now and use it frequently. It is used not just for cutting pc boards to size but also for making housings. It is sturdy, powerful and accurate and has worked flawlessly in the time I've had it. This is a hand made saw built in the shop of Jim Byrnes mainly for the woodworking hobbyists. The reason I prefer this over the cheaper Harbor Freight miniature table saw that I own is that this one can easily cut through a pc board and has an accurate fence to guide in making a precisi
8209	2013-02-02 06:48:56	WA0ITP	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
I found a inexpensive compound action tin snips at Menards ( I think). It's easy to use and makes short work of sizing boards or making Manhattan pads. ---------------------------------- I love this radio stuff ! 72 WAØITP www.wa0itp.com www.4sqrp.com www.qrpspots.com ----- Original Message -----
8211	2013-02-02 08:40:04	Brooke Clarke	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
Hi Jerry: This is something that took a few years to figure out. I tried the 8# Mini Shear/Break from Harbor Freight, but no cigar. It worked sometimes but not all the time. I've hears that there are slightly larger paper cutting shears that do work, but they are not readily available. http://www.prc68.com/I/8MSB.shtml Tin Snips can make about a half inch cut for each squeeze, but are not practical for production use (your hand would get very tired). http://www.prc68.com/I/8MSB.shtml#TS The real solution for me is the 12" Bench Top Hand Shear. It has a compound mechanical action and is specified to cut 1/8" steel plate. There's no fiberglass dust and it's quick and easy one hand (really one finger is all that's required). http://www.prc68.com/I/12InShear.shtml http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=130-5700 Note that there are similar looking bench top shears that are designed to cut curves, this one cuts straight lines. It may be that one of the smaller (5", 6" or 8") bench top shears from Enco would also work fine. If you get one let me know how it works. -- Have Fun, Brooke Clarke http://www.PRC68.com http://www.end2partygovernment.com/2012Issues.html
8213	2013-02-02 19:08:52	Cliff McCreery	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
Almost anything will cut copper clad board. I use an antique table saw mounted with a smooth blade made for cutting roof flashing. The table saw itself is mounted on a scrap scaffold plank along with a huge antique electric motor and exposed belt. Surely an item from the '40s if not earlier. I do try to keep my hands out of the running belt and I do wear a simple filter mask, glasses and hold my breath. Jerry Haigwood wrote: > > >Hello All, > >I would like to know how most of you builders cut copper clad board. I >usually buy my board from ABCFAB at the epay place in 4 x 6 inch pieces. I >have been using a hack saw and sometimes a jig saw to do the cutting. >Neither method is very accurate. I have heard of people scoring the . . .
8215	2013-02-03 13:39:21	Gene Dorcas	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
I've tried several things. The easiest is the large paper cutter from the office but if you cut very much it well really dull the blades. I've tried hack saw, mitre saw and dremel tool. With some success. The hack saw was inaccurate. The mitre saw has to have a suitable blade. And the dremel tool was as accurate as my hand was steady. I used a cut-off blade which will even cut stainless steel. But I now have a small table saw for cutting small things that a person would need that builds models. I put an abrasive disc in it that you would use to cut metals and it works great cuz there's a guide that lets me cut in a straight line. But of course unless you're using that saw for other purposes it's expensive for just cutting pcb material. I guess I would recommend getting several cut-off blades for your dremel tool. Buy several cuz they're easy to break. Gene, W5DOR
8216	2013-02-03 13:39:25	Gene Dorcas	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
This is the saw I use. http://www.micromark.com/microlux-mini-tilt-arbor-table-saw-for-benchtop-hob by-use,7500.html with a #82594 or #82593 blade.
8217	2013-02-03 13:39:28	Leonard Meek	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
Jerry, I clamp my copper clad between a pair of aluminum angles in my bench vise. Then, using an old linoleum knife with a sharpened point, I score the board front and back, using the aluminum angles as guides. I't important to score all the way through the copper and make an identical score on the back of the board. Using two peices of wood front & back, bend the board until it cracks. It won't give you a clean cut, but you can dress it up with an old file. I use the same method to cut light guage (up to 1/16") aluminum sheet, and plexiglass. There is so called "scissor cut" PC board. I have a bunch of it and I cut it with a small pair of tin snips. There used to be a water soluable etch resist call "Resolve-it" (I think) made by Coval Industries but they seem to have gone out of business. It was really good for fine detail work. Leonard ----- Original Message -----
8218	2013-02-03 13:39:31	Todd F. Carney	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
Not more than an hour ago I came back from Harbor Freight with a little bench-top "table saw" called the MightMite. It comes with two 4" blades: one manganese steel and the other diamond coated. That's the one I figure I'll use for pc material. I haven't used it yet, but I will in a few hours and I'll post a little review to the group. Harbor Freight item #93211. $36.00. JUST IN! I found a Harbor Freight video on this thing. Never mind the guy's goofiness. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hDp962Y9YU 73, Todd ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ K7TFC / Medford, Oregon, USA / CN82ni / UTC-8 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ QRP (CW & SSB) / EmComm / SOTA / Homebrew / Design
8219	2013-02-03 13:39:38	Paul	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
I have finally gotten around the “I cannot afford it” when I purchase tools. I have come to the conclusion that if I use a tool once it has paid for itself, so when I found a 12” Harbor Fright press brake on Craig’s list I did not hesitate. Now I make my own aluminum boxes and cutting aluminum and PCB’s are no problem. de Paul, W8AEF
8220	2013-02-03 13:39:42	Mark Schoonover	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
I started using a Craftsman Track saw. The box even shows that it can cut circuit board material. On Friday, February 1, 2013, Jerry Haigwood <jerry@w5jh.net> wrote: > > > Hello All, > > I would like to know how most of you builders cut copper clad board. I > usually buy my board from ABCFAB at the epay place in 4 x 6 inch pieces. I > have been using a hack saw and sometimes a jig saw to do the cutting. > Neither method is very accurate. I have heard of people scoring the > laminate with a knife and then snapping the piece off. I haven't tried that > method - I'd probably be missing a finger or two if I tried. ;-) I have > looked around for a lost cost shear but there isn't any such thing. So, > share your methods please! > > Jerry W5JH > > "building something without experimenting is just solder practice" > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > -- 73 - Mark Schoonover - KA6WKE http://www.ka6wke.net QSX: 21.446 SSB & 29.6 FM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
8221	2013-02-03 13:39:44	Kirk Kleinschmidt	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
Hi, gang, To cut copper-clad board I use a standard powered miter saw (mine doesn't "slide," it just cuts mitered or 90-degree angles) with a very fine blade. Lots of dust with this method (and excellent accuracy), so please use a mask and safety goggles. Years ago I used to cut PC board and light-gauge sheet metal with an old-school paper cutter, just like the ones found in every grade school classroom in the '50s and '60s -- the kind with the measuring grids and the raised guide/edge on the "bed" and the curved, "scimitar-style" shearing blade. Most modern cutters built like this are junky and couldn't cut a wet noodle...but the older "classroom-grade" paper cutters were a lot like sheet metal shears. You could remove the cutting arm and easily hack your way out of any Zombie Apocalypse! Harbor Freight Tools has a "classroom cutter" for $25 that looks tough enough. It's rated for "12 sheets of paper in a single cut." I wonder if anyone on the list has tried one? I've also cut PC board material on table saws and band saws with no difficulty. I'm looking for a way to easily make/cut panels, boxes and chassis from light-gauge sheet metal and the $35, 18-inch-capacity sheet metal brake, also at Harbor Freight Tools. Good luck to us all! --Kirk, NT0Z My book, "Stealth Amateur Radio," is now available from www.stealthamateur.com and on the Amazon Kindle (soon) > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
8222	2013-02-03 13:39:48	Ronald RiemVis	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
Hello Jerry, There are easy accurate method to cut those boards, I use a metal plate scissor. To make holes I use a Dremel high revolution drilling machine with a miller or a drill. GoodLuck !!! On 2 February 2013 07:23, Jerry Haigwood <jerry@w5jh.net> wrote: > ** > > > Hello All, > > I would like to know how most of you builders cut copper clad board. I > usually buy my board from ABCFAB at the epay place in 4 x 6 inch pieces. I > have been using a hack saw and sometimes a jig saw to do the cutting. > Neither method is very accurate. I have heard of people scoring the > laminate with a knife and then snapping the piece off. I haven't tried that > method - I'd probably be missing a finger or two if I tried. ;-) I have > looked around for a lost cost shear but there isn't any such thing. So, > share your methods please! > > Jerry W5JH > > "building something without experimenting is just solder practice" > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
8223	2013-02-03 13:40:01	rlramirez77	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
I am a woodworker and just use my table saw. Copper is non-ferrous and as long as the hook of the blade teeth is +/- a few degrees, there's no problem doing this with the high quality carbide blades. The -1 degree blade I used for laminates is perfect for this or aluminum. Russ K0WFS
8224	2013-02-03 13:40:06	Todd Carney / K7T...	Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board
I thought I replied to this thread yesterday, but now it doesn't show up(????). I'm actually glad it went missing because it was an overly-excited post about the MightyMite bench-top table saw I bought yesterday at Harbor Freight (Item #93211). Its footprint is smaller than a sheet of paper, so I was quite pleased with my purchase. BUT, I've now had a chance to try it, and I can say without doubt that it's 7-lbs of junk. The castings are crude, the table surface is rough, as are miter-gauge slots. Unlike the video HF put

Message

Date

From

Subject

8193

2013-02-01 15:23:46

Jerry Haigwood

Cutting Copper Clad Board

Hello All,

I would like to know how most of you builders cut copper clad board. I
usually buy my board from ABCFAB at the epay place in 4 x 6 inch pieces. I
have been using a hack saw and sometimes a jig saw to do the cutting.
Neither method is very accurate. I have heard of people scoring the
laminate with a knife and then snapping the piece off. I haven't tried that
method - I'd probably be missing a finger or two if I tried. ;-) I have
looked around for a lost cost shear but there isn't any such thing. So,
share your methods please!

Jerry W5JH

"building something without experimenting is just solder practice"

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

8194

2013-02-01 15:50:12

Chris Trask

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

>
> I would like to know how most of you builders cut copper clad board.

> usually buy my board from ABCFAB at the epay place in 4 x 6 inch pieces.

> have been using a hack saw and sometimes a jig saw to do the cutting.
> Neither method is very accurate. I have heard of people scoring the
> laminate with a knife and then snapping the piece off. I haven't tried

that

> method - I'd probably be missing a finger or two if I tried. ;-) I have
> looked around for a lost cost shear but there isn't any such thing. So,
> share your methods please!
>

I generally use a hacksaw or jig saw becasue they are available, but I
would love to get my hands on one of those small Craftsman benchtop bandsaws
and fit it with a metal-cutting blade. I've used full-size bandsaws to do
this, and one place I worked had une set of for metal and PCB cutting only.

Don't bother with a shear. The glass fibers in the PCB will ruin the
blade faster than anything else you can think of.

Chris Trask
N7ZWY / WDX3HLB
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~christrask/

8195

2013-02-01 15:57:30

Jerry Haigwood

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

Hi Chris,

Yep, I have been looking at the bench saws also. However, I have yet to
find a metal cutting blade for one. I checked the usual places but maybe I
need to dig deeper.

Jerry W5JH

"building something without experimenting is just solder practice"

8196

2013-02-01 16:00:15

William Carver

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

If you're not cutting production quantities of board material a shear
works fine. After 25 years mine is cutting PCB, .010 tinned steel and
sheet alumiumum without a problem. And it was used to begin with.

W7AAZ

On Fri, 2013-02-01 at 16:48 -0700, Chris Trask wrote:

> I would like to know how most of you builders cut copper clad board.
> I usually buy my board from ABCFAB at the epay place in 4 x 6 inch
> pieces.
> I have been using a hack saw and sometimes a jig saw to do the
> cutting. Neither method is very accurate. I have heard of people
> scoring the laminate with a knife and then snapping the piece off. I
> haven't tried that method - I'd probably be missing a finger or two if
> I tried. ;-) I have looked around for a lost cost shear but there
> isn't any such thing. So, > share your methods please!
> >
>
> I generally use a hacksaw or jig saw becasue they are available, but I
> would love to get my hands on one of those small Craftsman benchtop
> bandsaws and fit it with a metal-cutting blade. I've used full-size
> bandsaws to do this, and one place I worked had une set of for metal
> and PCB cutting only.
>
> Don't bother with a shear. The glass fibers in the PCB will ruin the
> blade faster than anything else you can think of.
>
> Chris Trask
> N7ZWY / WDX3HLB
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~christrask/
>
>
>
>
>

8197

2013-02-01 16:00:31

Phil Sittner

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

Chris, Jerry etal. The fiberglass will tear up your bandsaw blade faster than it ruins the hacksaw. The ideal solution is a shear fitted with a carbide or ceramic blade. I even tried using a small diamond blade (ceramic tile saw) but the dust was just terrible, so back to the dependable hacksaw along with a clean up file. As an aside, you can use a cheap (harbor freight) dial caliper to scribe circuit trace lines and then carve them out with an exacto knife. This method even works with the larger smd parts. Good luck and keep up the circuit hacking.

Phil
kd6rm

----- Original Message -----

8198

2013-02-01 16:03:34

NeilDouglas

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

Jerry,

For large cuts I use a water cooled ceramic tile circular saw.

For smaller cuts I use a panel hacksaw with a medium toothed blade.
Unfortunately these are no longer made but occasionally come up for sale on
the well known electronic auction site.

NeilD

G4SHJ

_____

8199

2013-02-01 16:10:21

bobtbobbo

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

For years I have been using a small benchtop ceramic tile cutting saw. It looks like a miniature plastic version of a wood-cutting table saw. The 3" blade has no teeth. It is a steel disc with industrial diamond chips imbedded in it. Designed to cut ceramic tile, I expect it to last at least another 10 years, cutting the relatively "soft" pc board. There is a little water well under the cutting wheel to help keep it cool. It has an adjustable rail fence, just like a regular table saw. Set the distance between the rail fence and the blade, turn it on and push your pc board through in exactly the same way one would use a wood table saw. I think I paid about $20 for it. I have seen newer ones for about the same price. I get precisi

8200

2013-02-01 16:51:53

Chris Trask

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

>
> For years I have been using a small benchtop ceramic tile cutting saw. It looks like a miniature
> plastic version of a wood-cutting table saw. The 3" blade has no teeth. It is a steel disc with
> industrial diamond chips imbedded in it. Designed to cut ceramic tile, I expect it to last at
> least another 10 years, cutting the relatively "soft" pc board. There is a little water well
> under the cutting wheel to help keep it cool. It has an adjustable rail fence, just like a
> regular table saw. Set the distance between the rail fence and the blade, turn it on and push
> your pc board through in exactly the same way one would use a wood table saw. I think I paid
> about $20 for it. I have seen newer ones for about the same price. I get precision cuts every
> time!
>

That sounds like an interesting option. I've used one for doing floor tiles and never thought of using one for cutting PCBs.

Chris

8201

2013-02-01 19:23:05

Jerry Haigwood

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

Hi Niel,

The water cooled tile saw sounds like a really great idea. One of
reasons I want to make accurate cuts is in order to make boxes out of copper
clad. My friend Ken Locosale does this all the time. He makes beautiful
boxes but then again he is a Mechanical Engineer with many years experience.
You can see some of his work here:

http://qrpbuilder.com/downloads/pcb_chassis_a.pdf

While you are there, take a look at Ken's loop antenna including homemade
trombone capacitors. I also took a look at Harborfreight.com for tile saws.
They have 4 models. One is a pro type model and three smaller models. The
three smaller models are almost all the same price ($60-65). Two are 7 inch
models and one is a 4.5 inch model. I think the 4.5 inch model would work
well enough. I can always go by the local store and check them out before
deciding. The URL is:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=tile+saw

So, this looks promising! Thank you for info.

Jerry W5JH

"building something without experimenting is just solder practice"

8203

2013-02-01 22:10:03

Kerry

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

I use this setup;

http://i46.tinypic.com/1402s5.jpg

Two ca.2-foot lengths of about 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 1/4" angle; there is a 1/4" bolt at each end in the vertical flange; the bolt passes through the front flange and is tapped into the rear flange.

Called filing or bending bars in the olden days; I also use them for bending sheet-metal.

The tool on the left is a cheap tile-scoring tool; the other is a small engineer's square.

First I mark the required size on the PCB then score with the tool against a firmly-held steel rule. A piece of ply/chipboard protects the benchtop from gouges when the scoring tool passes the edge of the PCB.

Score s/s PCB on the copper side first then turn over and the line can be seen through the fibreglass; score along this line and snap over the bench edge or in the vise. Double-side PCB requires a layout line on each side.

It doesn't take much of a score to provide a stress-riser for snapping.

The PCB then goes into the centre of the filing bars (but see later) with just a little protruding; file level with the top surface with a fairly coarse file and you have one straight edge.

Rotate PCB 90 degrees and use the square to get the first straight edge vertical, ie square to the top of the bars; the square blade must be thinner than the PCB material.

Leave a little PCB protruding, tighten the vise and check again with the square. File the PCB as in step 1; now there are two straight edges at right angles.

Rinse & repeat until you have four straight sides; a perfect rectangle if you have been careful. Check with the square.

Accurate sizes can be made by doing the first two sides then working from them to scribe lines for the other two sides; carefully align the scribed lines with the top of the bars and check with the square before filing level.

The bolts are useful if the required size is large and won't fit in the vertical throat of the vise; in that case it goes to one side of the vise and the vise and the bolt are tightened together to keep even pressure on the PCB.

Took longer to describe than to do. :)

The file removes almost no steel from the top face of the bars; mine has been used for PCB and other filing of thin material for about 20 years and there may be a few thou hollow, not enough to worry about.

Kerry VK2TIL.

8204

2013-02-01 22:34:38

Ashhar Farhan

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

I cut the FR4 boards quite easily with nothing more than a hobby knife
and a ruler.
I draw the cut line with a sharp pencil. Keep the ruler over is and
score twice, lightly. The first two scores are meant to mark a groove
that is straight and capable of holding the blade in.
Then three passes putting my body weight behind the knife, the tip
sitting in the groove, resting against the passing the knife SLOWLY
over the groove. You should feel the knife tip go past the copper
cladding.
Once you have a deep and nice line drawn out, place the board at the
edge of a table, such that the table edge is under and along the ridge
of the copper board. Place a book or a wooden board above the copper
board as well, sandwiching the copper clad between the table and the
wooden block. Now, firmly and slowly, work the coppe clad up and down,
feel the fibers loosening up along the cut line. Keep on moving the
copper clad increasing the angle of bend until it cracks on the cut
line. Pry it loose.
The trick is to get the cut line straight and deep and then hold the
board firmly and work it up and down carefully.
- f

On 2/2/13, Jerry Haigwood <jerry@w5jh.net> wrote:
> Hi Niel,
>
> The water cooled tile saw sounds like a really great idea. One of
> reasons I want to make accurate cuts is in order to make boxes out of
> copper
> clad. My friend Ken Locosale does this all the time. He makes beautiful
> boxes but then again he is a Mechanical Engineer with many years
> experience.
> You can see some of his work here:
>
> http://qrpbuilder.com/downloads/pcb_chassis_a.pdf
>
> While you are there, take a look at Ken's loop antenna including homemade
> trombone capacitors. I also took a look at Harborfreight.com for tile
> saws.
> They have 4 models. One is a pro type model and three smaller models. The
> three smaller models are almost all the same price ($60-65). Two are 7 inch
> models and one is a 4.5 inch model. I think the 4.5 inch model would work
> well enough. I can always go by the local store and check them out before
> deciding. The URL is:
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=tile+saw
>
> So, this looks promising! Thank you for info.
>
> Jerry W5JH
>
> "building something without experimenting is just solder practice"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

8205

2013-02-02 03:02:27

Leon Heller

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

8206

2013-02-02 03:59:24

Bill Meara

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

I use tin shears.

---

8207

2013-02-02 05:35:53

Bob

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

All -

I'm biased but may I suggest "An Easier Way to Build PC Board Enclosures", QST, Sept. 2003? This article was reprinted in the ARRL book "More QRP Power" but the QST version is in color which adds some clarity to the photos. BTW - Radio Shack sells some double sided phenolic based board which is easier to work than glass based board material but I use both. I've never been able to find phenolic based stuff anywhere else - any suggestions on this?

Cordially,
Bob, K3NHI

8208

2013-02-02 06:47:40

Tom

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

I bought a Jim Byrnes table saw.
< http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/tablesaw1.html >
It is a lot of money and definitely not a tool for the occasional builder. I've had it for a few years now and use it frequently. It is used not just for cutting pc boards to size but also for making housings. It is sturdy, powerful and accurate and has worked flawlessly in the time I've had it.
This is a hand made saw built in the shop of Jim Byrnes mainly for the woodworking hobbyists.
The reason I prefer this over the cheaper Harbor Freight miniature table saw that I own is that this one can easily cut through a pc board and has an accurate fence to guide in making a precisi

8209

2013-02-02 06:48:56

WA0ITP

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

I found a inexpensive compound action tin snips at Menards ( I think). It's
easy to use and makes short work of sizing boards or making Manhattan pads.
----------------------------------
I love this radio stuff !
72 WAØITP
www.wa0itp.com
www.4sqrp.com
www.qrpspots.com

----- Original Message -----

8211

2013-02-02 08:40:04

Brooke Clarke

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

Hi Jerry:

This is something that took a few years to figure out.
I tried the 8# Mini Shear/Break from Harbor Freight, but no cigar. It worked sometimes but not all the time.
I've hears that there are slightly larger paper cutting shears that do work, but they are not readily available.
http://www.prc68.com/I/8MSB.shtml

Tin Snips can make about a half inch cut for each squeeze, but are not practical for production use (your hand would get
very tired).
http://www.prc68.com/I/8MSB.shtml#TS

The real solution for me is the 12" Bench Top Hand Shear. It has a compound mechanical action and is specified to cut
1/8" steel plate.
There's no fiberglass dust and it's quick and easy one hand (really one finger is all that's required).
http://www.prc68.com/I/12InShear.shtml
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=130-5700

Note that there are similar looking bench top shears that are designed to cut curves, this one cuts straight lines.

It may be that one of the smaller (5", 6" or 8") bench top shears from Enco would also work fine. If you get one let me
know how it works.

--
Have Fun,

Brooke Clarke
http://www.PRC68.com
http://www.end2partygovernment.com/2012Issues.html

8213

2013-02-02 19:08:52

Cliff McCreery

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

Almost anything will cut copper clad board. I use an antique table
saw mounted with a smooth blade made for cutting roof flashing. The
table saw itself is mounted on a scrap scaffold plank along with a
huge antique electric motor and exposed belt. Surely an item from the
'40s if not earlier. I do try to keep my hands out of the running
belt and I do wear a simple filter mask, glasses and hold my breath.

Jerry Haigwood wrote:

>
>
>Hello All,
>
>I would like to know how most of you builders cut copper clad board. I
>usually buy my board from ABCFAB at the epay place in 4 x 6 inch pieces. I
>have been using a hack saw and sometimes a jig saw to do the cutting.
>Neither method is very accurate. I have heard of people scoring the

. . .

8215

2013-02-03 13:39:21

Gene Dorcas

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

I've tried several things.

The easiest is the large paper cutter from the office but if you cut very
much it well really dull the blades.

I've tried hack saw, mitre saw and dremel tool. With some success.

The hack saw was inaccurate. The mitre saw has to have a suitable blade. And
the dremel tool was as accurate as my hand was steady. I used a cut-off
blade which will even cut stainless steel.

But I now have a small table saw for cutting small things that a person
would need that builds models. I put an abrasive disc in it that you would
use to cut metals and it works great cuz there's a guide that lets me cut in
a straight line. But of course unless you're using that saw for other
purposes it's expensive for just cutting pcb material.

I guess I would recommend getting several cut-off blades for your dremel
tool. Buy several cuz they're easy to break.

Gene, W5DOR

8216

2013-02-03 13:39:25

Gene Dorcas

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

This is the saw I use.

http://www.micromark.com/microlux-mini-tilt-arbor-table-saw-for-benchtop-hob
by-use,7500.html

with a #82594 or #82593 blade.

8217

2013-02-03 13:39:28

Leonard Meek

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

Jerry, I clamp my copper clad between a pair of aluminum angles in my bench
vise. Then, using an old linoleum knife with a sharpened point, I score the
board front and back, using the aluminum angles as guides. I't important to
score all the way through the copper and make an identical score on the back
of the board. Using two peices of wood front & back, bend the board until it
cracks. It won't give you a clean cut, but you can dress it up with an old
file. I use the same method to cut light guage (up to 1/16") aluminum
sheet, and plexiglass. There is so called "scissor cut" PC board. I have a
bunch of it and I cut it with a small pair of tin snips. There used to be a
water soluable etch resist call "Resolve-it" (I think) made by Coval
Industries but they seem to have gone out of business. It was really good
for fine detail work.

Leonard

----- Original Message -----

8218

2013-02-03 13:39:31

Todd F. Carney

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

Not more than an hour ago I came back from Harbor Freight with a little
bench-top "table saw" called the MightMite. It comes with two 4" blades:
one manganese steel and the other diamond coated. That's the one I figure
I'll use for pc material. I haven't used it yet, but I will in a few hours
and I'll post a little review to the group.

Harbor Freight item #93211. $36.00.

JUST IN! I found a Harbor Freight video on this thing. Never mind the guy's
goofiness.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hDp962Y9YU

73,

Todd
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
K7TFC / Medford, Oregon, USA / CN82ni / UTC-8
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
QRP (CW & SSB) / EmComm / SOTA / Homebrew / Design

8219

2013-02-03 13:39:38

Paul

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

I have finally gotten around the “I cannot afford it” when I purchase tools. I have come to the conclusion that if I use a tool once it has paid for itself, so when I found a 12” Harbor Fright press brake on Craig’s list I did not hesitate.

Now I make my own aluminum boxes and cutting aluminum and PCB’s are no problem.

de Paul, W8AEF

8220

2013-02-03 13:39:42

Mark Schoonover

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

I started using a Craftsman Track saw. The box even shows that it can cut
circuit board material.

On Friday, February 1, 2013, Jerry Haigwood <jerry@w5jh.net> wrote:
>
>
> Hello All,
>
> I would like to know how most of you builders cut copper clad board. I
> usually buy my board from ABCFAB at the epay place in 4 x 6 inch pieces. I
> have been using a hack saw and sometimes a jig saw to do the cutting.
> Neither method is very accurate. I have heard of people scoring the
> laminate with a knife and then snapping the piece off. I haven't tried
that
> method - I'd probably be missing a finger or two if I tried. ;-) I have
> looked around for a lost cost shear but there isn't any such thing. So,
> share your methods please!
>
> Jerry W5JH
>
> "building something without experimenting is just solder practice"
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

--
73 - Mark Schoonover - KA6WKE
http://www.ka6wke.net
QSX: 21.446 SSB & 29.6 FM

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

8221

2013-02-03 13:39:44

Kirk Kleinschmidt

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

Hi, gang,

To cut copper-clad board I use a standard powered miter saw (mine doesn't "slide," it just cuts mitered or 90-degree angles) with a very fine blade. Lots of dust with this method (and excellent accuracy), so please use a mask and safety goggles.

Years ago I used to cut PC board and light-gauge sheet metal with an old-school paper cutter, just like the ones found in every grade school classroom in the '50s and '60s -- the kind with the measuring grids and the raised guide/edge on the "bed" and the curved, "scimitar-style" shearing blade.

Most modern cutters built like this are junky and couldn't cut a wet noodle...but the older "classroom-grade" paper cutters were a lot like sheet metal shears. You could remove the cutting arm and easily hack your way out of any Zombie Apocalypse!

Harbor Freight Tools has a "classroom cutter" for $25 that looks tough enough. It's rated for "12 sheets of paper in a single cut." I wonder if anyone on the list has tried one?

I've also cut PC board material on table saws and band saws with no difficulty.

I'm looking for a way to easily make/cut panels, boxes and chassis from light-gauge sheet metal and the $35, 18-inch-capacity sheet metal brake, also at Harbor Freight Tools.

Good luck to us all!

--Kirk, NT0Z

My book, "Stealth Amateur Radio," is now available from
www.stealthamateur.com and on the Amazon Kindle (soon)

>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

8222

2013-02-03 13:39:48

Ronald RiemVis

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

Hello Jerry,

There are easy accurate method to cut those boards, I use a metal plate
scissor.
To make holes I use a Dremel high revolution drilling machine with a miller
or a drill.

GoodLuck !!!

On 2 February 2013 07:23, Jerry Haigwood <jerry@w5jh.net> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Hello All,
>
> I would like to know how most of you builders cut copper clad board. I
> usually buy my board from ABCFAB at the epay place in 4 x 6 inch pieces. I
> have been using a hack saw and sometimes a jig saw to do the cutting.
> Neither method is very accurate. I have heard of people scoring the
> laminate with a knife and then snapping the piece off. I haven't tried that
> method - I'd probably be missing a finger or two if I tried. ;-) I have
> looked around for a lost cost shear but there isn't any such thing. So,
> share your methods please!
>
> Jerry W5JH
>
> "building something without experimenting is just solder practice"
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

8223

2013-02-03 13:40:01

rlramirez77

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

I am a woodworker and just use my table saw. Copper is non-ferrous and as long as the hook of the blade teeth is +/- a few degrees, there's no problem doing this with the high quality carbide blades. The -1 degree blade I used for laminates is perfect for this or aluminum.

Russ
K0WFS

8224

2013-02-03 13:40:06

Todd Carney / K7T...

Re: Cutting Copper Clad Board

I thought I replied to this thread yesterday, but now it doesn't show up(????). I'm actually glad it went missing because it was an overly-excited post about the MightyMite bench-top table saw I bought yesterday at Harbor Freight (Item #93211). Its footprint is smaller than a sheet of paper, so I was quite pleased with my purchase.

BUT, I've now had a chance to try it, and I can say without doubt that it's 7-lbs of junk. The castings are crude, the table surface is rough, as are miter-gauge slots. Unlike the video HF put